Texas

 

 Texas is

a big big state. 
a world of it's own
diverse and interesting

I drove from cold Carlsbad through Western Texas. It has to be the ugliest area of the country, perhaps of any country. Fracking, Oil rigs, blowing trash unhindered by anything, miles of nothing but scrub and low income housing for the miners/rig workers. There were many miles just to slog through and not a lot to see or do. I will not venture there again. And you might not want to either.

I made it to Corpus Christi to meet up with an old dear friend who would spend the next ten days with me. We had hopes that CC would be more interesting and warmer. I had thought of spending time on the beach soaking up some sun but it was quite cold- like the rest of the trip. We put Gina in a doggie caretakers house for a couple days and went to a variety of spots to catch the famous Texas coast. The cold rain put a damper on our excursions. We found a couple of interesting places but nothing that invited us to spend time relaxing. We took a ferry and say dozens of dolphins, fed the grackles from our hand as we waiting and explored the coastal towns northeast of CC. 

One highlight of our time in Christi was the King Ranch, 45 minutes from CC where we had scheduled a Nature Expedition. A small van took our group of 8 over miles of this huge territory (The King Ranch is bigger than Rhode Island). We saw many different birds, javelinas (similar to a wild pig) an armadillo, deer, their specialty cows- which were quite lovely. It was many hours of stopping and seeing, my favorite kind of excursion. In Corpus Christi we had fair barbeque and some Mexican food. (high on the list).

     After picking up Gina and tending to some minor fixings to the van we headed to San Antonio. Molly, my friend, had gotten a hotel right in town - The Crockett, which we enjoyed very much. It was convenient to the Riverwalk, the Alamo,  and we visited a historical mission,  visited an architectural part of town,a botanical garden. Ate more barbeque. One night we went to the rodeo. It was quite the affair! In a stadium setting with lots of cowboys, families and decked out couples- fringes, cowboy boots and hats. A real slice of Americana. 

The following day we walked along the Riverwalk and had an outdoor breakfast with Gina enjoying the

folks walking by. She was very into being part of the group and enjoyed being included in activities. As it was Valentines Day there were many courthouse weddings going on in the central square. Nice to feel the love. Heading to Austin, Molly was a good sport to travel with Gina on her lap as we traveled.

As we did not spend days on the coast we headed for Fredericksburg, Northwest of Austin which had a fair amount of history and a large beginning of German heritage. It was a nice little town, busy as it was a three day weekend for Presidents Day. We found a funky hotel and spent a day walking the streets and eating and wandering in and out of shops.

We were right near Luchenbach, known far and wide from the Willie Nelson/ Waylon Jennings song  (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jptq7fKHIqQ&ab_channel=FordCountryboy1995) so we deviated a bit and it ended up being one of my favorite spots. It is not a town as was expected but a music venue with some weathered buildings and stages scattered among the trees. It was a spot I could have settled into one of the live concerts which are frequent and regrettably not playing when we were there but we partook of the local color and bought souvenirs. 

Austin, a young, vibrant city is chock full of 20/30 somethings. We were the oldest ones wherever we went. Walked around the town, visiting parks, hip streets, had a pleasant evening with some good jazz. A woman singer, a guitar player and a fine bass player. We visited cowboy boot stores, ate local ice cream, and walked, walked. Molly flew home from there  and I began the long trek home.

  

Ode to National Parks

 Hail to thee, Teddy Roosevelt, Woodrow Wilson, Stephen Mather, Horace Albright and to the marketing genius of Ansel Adams, among others, for kickstarting the National Parks program. What gems there are in our crown of National Parks. I had seen many of the trip West and continue to do as many as feasible. How lucky we are to claim more than 400 national parks (84 million acres). And then there are State Parks. I bought a Senior Park Pass and it makes coming and going very easy.

Such was the case for the White Sands National Park. A hotel guy said they were pretty cool and it was

not out of the way so we went. It was pretty cool.  In some areas it looked so much like snow (and it was in the high 30's) that folks bought saucer sleds at the gift shop and were sledding! It was interesting to see the landscape change so dramatically. See for

yourself.

And then of course we have seen Arches and Zion and Bryce Canyon and Kodachrome and...

Good Lord I have seen a lot of sights, amazing! I have traveled over 9,000 miles, probably heading to 10,000 and I am so grateful to have had this opportunity.

The most recent park notched on my cane is Carlsbad Caverns. I had to delay my trip a couple days as they were closed for some interior lighting repair but I went on February 1 and was so satisfied that I don't think I will have to do another cave ever. It is staggering and I didn't even do the self guided loop. If you go, do a tour and then plan another hour and a half on either end for the grand self guided walk. I was a little nervous at first but it is so awe inspiring you forget how far underground you are. You really do. Gina was waiting in the car for me and it was cold and damp so I didn't want to leave her too long. Of course she was fine, she just took a nap! Here are some pictures of the park outside that morning and then the caves inside.

Southern Deserts Jan 26-29

 It's curious how different deserts can be. Some, as open, rocky and barren stretches of land like in Nevada and near Joshua Tree seem desolate and uninhabitable, although there are many inhabitants that wait until night, or sleep in the cold weather (thank you rattlesnakes) or choose to stay away from the highways. Other desert spaces seem chock full of life, although perhaps not the life you would like to go traipsing

around with. The Sonora desert is such a place. Lots of cactus variety, scrub, little flowers. The great saguaro cactus lording over their spaces, some pocked and sculpted with holes of a visiting woodpecker. There were a fair amount of hawks around which says to me there were a fair amount of small things to eat. I have yet to see a burrowing owl or a roadrunner and would like to very much. There is more desert to come. 

I drove through Gila Bend, Arizona, which I loved the name of and was rewarded with yard art to grace your adobe home. It is no surprise to me that much of it was painted gaudy colors. It's not like you can have a cutting garden after all. Many of the homes had rock arrangements or iron yard art. Like dinosaurs. Why? why not? I snagged an overnight spot at Picacho Peak State Park. It was one of their overflow spaces which was good for me because although I couldn't plug in from the cold I was away from campgrounds and had few neighbors. I plugged in my battery blanket and passed the night just fine.

The following day I looked at my Roadside Attractions phone app and found there was the Biosphere 2 fairly near by. Of course I wanted to see it. My friend, Molly had told me it was interesting and it was. A large complex that used to hold 8 people completely self sufficient to see if people could live

some place like on the moon. For various reasons the experiment was not as successful as they hoped but the folks made it though 2 years and lessons were learned. Now the complex is used to test environmental theories and for educational seminars. It was interesting. (Look it up to know more-biosphere2.org)

Onward we go to Tombstone. Yes, that Tombstone- "the town too stubborn to die". I expected some tourist kitche and that's what we got. Gina could walk around with me so that was pleasant. She was wearing her bandana so fit the part. We got an old timey picture taken which was fun and started to watch a gunfight drama unfold, complete with a Marty Robbins song of Old El Paso. Gina really hated the crowds interactions and  gun noise and was shaking so we left. It was a hokey show but we got enough of it. I had hoped to stay in Bisbee, a little artsy town nearby but it was chock a block full (3 day weekend) so we did more driving than I intended. Found the Dos Adobes trailer park which was pretty far from towns and heard a lot of coyotes on our night walk. It was cold though! The water froze in my hose hook up. No damage but a nuisance. I must say I am getting a little tired of the cold!

The next days drive brought us through Deming, a Mimbres Pottery capital, I love their designs. We also drove through Hatch, Arizona which I found later was the chile capital of the world. Opportunity missed! But now I know where you are Chile Capital!! 

The border/immigration situation is palpable here. We don't get much in Maine because immigrants don't want to come that far. I wish they would. It is sort of creepy though to see helicopters scouting the skies for immigrants and there are occasionally patrol stations with dogs that you have to go through and claim you're an American citizen. I guess I looked white enough....

A crummy Sleep 8 motel for the evening as I wanted a shower. It served it's purpose.

So Cal and beyond

 So far behind!
I headed from the central coast back down to the LA area to bid adieu to family.
My sister’s citrus and avocado farm/ranch is a welcoming spot. Gina enjoyed being off leash as the whole acreage is fenced in. She enjoys the dogs although is more interested in rabbits!

Walking around the house it is a treat to see brother in law, Danny’s bronze sculptures in amusing places. I had a pleasant visit with nephew Henry and his family- wife and toddler. They live in Malibu.
The area is rich with agriculture, Raspberry farms, cauliflower, lots of oranges and such. Yet it is not far from LA. We even sneaked in a lunch in Ventura so it was a busy yet relaxing time.
I stopped in again in Burbank to visit with my daughter over the weekend. I had the good luck to book a room in an apartment near her through Airbnb. It turned out that the woman who I was staying with is a veterinary nurse and she came to my rescue with Gina. Gina had a hotspot on her neck that she had been itching. I did not know it was there, her hair is so thick but Sarah shaved the spot, applied and then gave me medicine to help her and also gave her some meds to help her limping. What a difference it made! Sarah also has a nonprofit business called Go Pawsome. (https://www.gopawesome.com/usa/) she travels the world with pet volunteers to spay neuter and give medical attention to animals in underserved communities. It is a terrific program to support as you can see from their website. If you would like to donate (I did) please contact them, every bit helps. Or pass this information on to a vet in your community.
Gina was glad to get back to squirrel chasing and walking in a residential area she knew. We stayed the weekend, ate some fine food with my daughter and her husband and headed East.

Our first stop outside of LA was the Salton Sea. I had heard about it but didn’t really know anything about it other than it was a watering hole for birds. Say no more. I went there. There were birds. There was also a strange history of how it was formed (by a human error- surprised?) But now the sea is drying up. There is no water feeding it. The birds were interesting- teals, herons, ducks of many flavors, hawks, and others. It lies in a fairly desolate area which, as I left was arresting in it’s wild barren beauty.
From the Sea to the desert and Yuma found us at an RV campground as it was cold in the nights. I wanted to hook up a heater so I have been doing that off and on for the week. It has been an eye opener to travel the southwest in the winter.

Much colder everywhere than anticipated. In Yuma the campground, Hidden Cove, was right by the Colorado River which is more like a creek after we have taken so much water from it.
In Yuma there is not much to see although they had a good dog park with well behaved dogs.

California's Central Coast

 Napa marked the end of the westward road for me. Although I wanted to go to San Francisco and have always wanted to go up the

Western Coast to Oregon and Washington the weather was not cooperating or encouraging. Repeated atmospheric rivers, the latest catchword from the weather channels made parts of California a flooded soggy mess, threatening lives, crops and landscapes. There was visible damage to fields and roadside cliffs that made me err on the side of caution. After two weeks in the Wine Country I turned southward and head the long way home.

Salinas was the first stop out of the rainy Napa environment. I chose it due to the song Me and Bobby McGhee, the Janis Joplin version, nod to Kris Kristofferson. Turns out that Salinas is also the home of John Steinbeck- prodigal son of Travels with Charley, Grapes of Wrath, Cannery Row, Of Mice and Men, and so many other memorable stories. It thus seemed doubly fitting that I stayed there although the haven for the evening turned out to be a Motel 6. Many of the other hotels would not accept dogs. The ground is too sodden for camping and some parks are closed due to mudslides and such. This trip has been shaped repeatedly by Gina and the weather. I wouldn't trade my traveling companion but sheesh! Salinas boasts a pleasant Main Street and many Steinbeck attractions and I am glad I went but will cross it off the bucket list.

Morro Bay was my next stop for a couple days. The first time I went there, on the way up to Napa I stepped out of the car to an air full of eucalyptus and ocean. Heavenly. This time around it did not disappoint. I got a spot in the Morro Bay State Campground with a one day reservation and had a lovely walk along the marsh boardwalk with a myriad of birds.  The sky was heavy but not daunting and we enjoyed the campground immensely. There are trails up the mountain behind the grounds and also a golf course which belongs to the park. Lots of green space and pretty scenery.

We discovered a dog beach in an adjacent town, got some work done in the van including propane refill at the UHaul (a good place to remember if you need propane). Evenings were breezy and rainy, some branches came down but we were none the worse for wear. I would say revitalized. I had downloaded some movies on my iPad so was cozy within Emma.

Continuing down the road I stopped at Pismo Beach. A wide, wild stretch of ocean beach that was chilly but not extraordinary in the winter. My destination for the evening was Ojai, which had been recommended to me. It is a welcoming little town, full of cute houses, retired hippies and lots of trees and gardens. I stayed at the Hummingbird Inn, which did take dogs and provided many walkable areas and trails. The following day dawned sunny and crisp, great weather for walking and seeing the town up close and personal. A terrific outdoor bookstore was recommended to me- Bart's Books- which could have consumed hours. I also had one of the best lattes I have ever drank/drunk from Beacon Coffee. A pleasant stay all around. And a lovely drive over the mountain via Santa Paula to my sister's ranch in Somis.

       

Napa Valley

 Landing on my feet seems to be something I have always been lucky at. Mind you, I say lucky and not

skilled. I left the Santa Ynez area to head north to see my cousin in Napa, California. On the way I stayed at a lovely campground near Gilroy called Coyote Lake on the side of Henry Coe State Park. 

Then the rains began. The atmospheric river that is playing such havoc with northern and central CA. I was going to stay a couple days but it looked as though the rain was going to hang out and what is the

point of being holed up in your van? Yes, I could have hiked but then you have wet towels, dog, clothes- well, I decided to pay my cousin an earlier visit than originally described and head to Napa. Good decision. 

Her house is very lovely, warm and dry, the dogs got along very well and it serves as a good base of roaming. We have been able to get out and about seeing the beautiful countryside, wining and dining and being lazy in the evenings, which suits me fine. The rain has been on and off which has allowed me to take Gina on some nice walks at nearby dog parks or city parks. I got to see other cousins who fed me delicious mushroom soup at their home and winery. Just being here has been restorative.

Napa is so green with all this rain, the volcanic hills are covered in a soft blanket. Many of the vineyards are standing in water which will continue to increase as the rivers of rain continue but it is a dormant period now in winter so all hope things will drain off. The water table continues to improve so this weather is a two edged sword for this area of CA. In other places the floods have been hugely destructive

and folks have been evacuated. Sadly, the luck of the draw. I am grateful to be in a house and not camping. The weather has chased me for this trip and certainly shaped my journey. 

The food has been a delight, as well as the wine. Christine, my cousin has a terrific market at the bottom of the hill which feeds out fancies, like Dungeness crab. Local restaurants raise the bar on their own menus and offer fresh and attractive plates for lunch and dinner. One place we went to was a bit over the top but also fun to eat in with chandeliers and 150 year old olive trees growing inside the restaurant. Leisurely eating is a great way to pass inclement weather!

Here are some pics of the week. I will be heading back East soon, not hurrying, heading for the Texas coast to see birds and catch some sun.

Dog walks have been in oak woods and open fields. Gina prefers the fields so she can investigate ground squirrels

Just Pictures